The Salesman
I heard knocking on the door. It seemingly disregarded the no soliciting sign hung beside.
I’ve felt heavy in the fog. A grey and dreary version of myself - to match the weather of the place where I grew up. Where seasonal depression loses track of what season it even is.
I am home by default. My health once again will try its best to dictate my timeline and desires. The people who love me the most know this is happening - They mean well and their words are kind. Humans have an innate desire to help a person on bended knees. But the greatest act to witness is to watch a human pick themselves back up.
When people ask me how I’m doing I try to stand real tall and tell them I’m just fine. If I share too much it defeats the purpose of the no soliciting sign.
The salesman truly believes what he holds is valuable. But the truth is I’ve answered that door so many times that I’m done buying anymore.
We may never know why some hang this sign - but we can assume they are protecting themselves.

Recital Hall Solo
Part I
Recently my dear friend Stas accomplished a lifetime goal of his. Being present for such a moment in a friend's life is truly an honour. Especially when said goal is to Solo Fearful Symmetry & Rainbow Serpent.
“Are you okay?” my girlfriend Joceline asked the night before. A blank face while staring at a peg board full of gear had probably caught her attention. Giving my head a shake I said “Yeah, I’m good”. Meanwhile, in my head, I was sorting a list of gear and course of action in preparation for the worst outcome. A sort of grim mentality to operate around, but, what can I say; Boy Scouts “Be Prepared”. I tossed 5 extra slings, 4 lockers, 3 pulleys and 6m of cordelette into my pack. My photo rope would stay with me all day. One tourniquet and a reflective blanket seemed about all I’d be able to provide in the worst-case scenario until further support arrived.
With the essentials ready and the game plan in mind, I was breathing easier and felt confident in my decision to photograph a friend Solo at such high output.

Part II
The three of us made quick work of the approach. Soloing all the approach ice to the base of Aquarius. Two weeks prior I was doing this task in a hand splint sheltered by an oven mitt. Much more pleasant, the second time around I’d say.
Aquarius is a 60m WI4 route. It’s essentially the gatekeeper to the Recital Hall. Pinched between two canyon walls with steeper climbing at the top. “You may enter if you can pass” is what you may think when looking at it. Knowing damn well the real treasure lay above tucked out of sight.
Eighteen minutes after leaving the ground the ropes were stretched to the top. Sans screws - sans belay. I wasn’t stressed watching this. The precision in each movement is reminiscent of a well-rehearsed ballet. Except without the soft consequence of stumbling on a dance floor.

Part III
Stepping back into the Recital Hall, that feeling sets back in. The one that makes your entire being feel like you are exactly where you are meant to be. I guess that’s what brings us back to these places. Not the frozen stiff toes, the split forearms or the core shaking temperatures. It’s the familiar and warm welcome we feel when greeted by frozen giants.
Stas asks me which one first; I don’t want to make this call. I tilt my head towards Fearful Symmetry, he looks at me and points to the base of Rainbow Serpent. That settled that. I remember it well.
I’ve had the opportunity to photograph Stas a handful of times, it’s always incredible to witness. He climbs with this armour that seems much stronger than any possible ice screw; apparently, lighter also. I’ve seen him on runouts that made me wish he’d stop to place another screw; but, I’ve realized now an object in motion stays in motion. There’s physics that proves this.
Twenty-Two minutes later, Stas stood a top Fearful Symmetry, arms spread wide. The silence that shouted with happiness erupted. Phillip made quick work of following, bringing the tagline required for rappeling along with him.
Rainbow Serpent felt a little heavier while staring through a viewfinder. Not because of Stas’s performance or conditions. I couldn’t help but notice the entire climb stretch the length of the frame; Longer & Steeper. Taking 50 minutes in total, twice the time & length of Fearful Symmetry.
The sound of falling ice becomes a deeper and deeper thud on the snow below. My eye’s widened each time. Just below the final pillar, in a nothing-but-Stas manner, he shouted out “this is good shit man”. I responded commenting on how controlled he was. He then chuckled and stated, “I wouldn’t want to be here if I wasn’t”. “Me Too” I shouted back. Silence fell once more as he made his way up the final pillar.
Asking if satisfied Stas replied “Very” - As was I. Satisfied everything went to plan; Satisfied we would all return to another day in the mountain.

